This morning as rain pours outside and wind batters my kitchen window, I am sipping espresso and recovering from a night of feasting and tryptophan-induced lethargy. While the actual Turkey Day might be a couple weeks away, for me it was yesterday. My friend Terry and her husband Vince proposed hosting a early Thanksgiving for those of us expats who haven’t experienced one in a few years. Terry is heading back to the States next week so we took the opportunity to celebrate this weekend. It was an intimate party of seven people but with enough food for a small army. Our Australian friend Janet was able to join us but her husband Ken is in intensive care in Siena after suffering a heart attack and fluid in his lungs earlier in the week. He is 86 and we are quite worried about him, but he is slowly showing signs of recovering. That positive news gave us an additional thing to be thankful for this year! Terry and I resolved to give Janet one night away from the worry and stress of traveling back and forth to the hospital.
Planning a Thanksgiving feast in Italy is not without challenges. There are no cranberries or sweet potatoes to be found in our small village. But thanks to some of Terry’s recent house guests, both items were tucked into suitcases and brought to us (Thanks, Bonnie!!!). The next issue was the turkey. It’s not a dietary staple in this neck of the woods, so you don’t find them in the supermarket with regularity and if you want one you must order it in from the butcher. The first time Terry tried to order a turkey in Italy, she said that when she went to the butcher to pick it up, she was presented with a 28 pound behemoth of a bird that looked as if it were 15 years old. She was pretty sure some family pet had just been killed so the American lady could have her turkey dinner!
This year Terry employed the help of her enterprising friend Alessandro who procured two beautiful turkeys. There was some tail feather cleaning to do as the Italian birds do not come pristine ala Butterball. They were in fact much more reminiscent of the turkeys my family raised each year when I was young– one look at an errant tail feather brings me immediately back to the smell of hot water soaked birds that we rapidly plucked for our annual feast.
While Terry took on the preparation of the sides and the birds, I took on the stuffing and the desserts. I grew up in a family where there were always many pies, so I of course prepared three desserts. Since for some incomprehensible reason not everyone likes pumpkin pie, I decided to do a pumpkin cheesecake and then an apple pie and a maple walnut (no pecans here).
So where do you get the pumpkin? There is no Libby’s solid pack pumpkin, so if I wanted pumpkin, I was going au naturel. If our forefathers in Plymouth could construct a feast out of what they’d harvested, surely I could cook up a little pumpkin. My first order of business was trying to figure out how to differentiate between pumpkin (zucca) and squash (zucca) when I explained what I wanted! In the end, I went to our town’s fruit lady, Franca, armed with a photo of pumpkins and she immediately pointed out what I needed. The cooking pumpkin was greenish, squat and really large! I told her how much of the pulp I was looking to have at the end, and she got out her big knife and carved up half of it for me. Once home, I baked it in the oven until the flesh scraped easily out of the skin and then with the help of my hand mixer, I had pumpkin puree! It was actually very satisfying to do and tasted great. It was almost a shame to hide it away in a cheesecake. I will spare you the homemade gingersnaps that I had to make for the crust and the caramel sauce which required two attempts!
We sipped fabulous champagne while we basted and fixed our final preparations last night, and then oohed and aahed as the beautiful turkey came out of the oven. As Vince carved the Turkey we marveled at the amount of breast meat on the Italian turkeys, finding that much like the beautiful women here with small waists and big bosoms, our Turkey was very well endowed.
We then took a page out of the Italians’ book and didn’t finish our feast in twenty minutes but sat at the table, talking and drinking a delicious Brunello, content not only with the food but to spend time with our friends. Janet who had never experienced a Thanksgiving before, got right into the action and loaded her plate with a little of everything more than once. Our Italian friends who eat everything separately would have been appalled at the amount of foods touching each other, but for us it was a delightful remembrance of home and holidays spent with our families. I knew the night was a success when after the desserts Terry declared, “I’m stuffed, I feel sick!” I smiled happily, we had managed to have a little bit of our old home in our new home! It was wonderful amalgamation of traditions and cultures.
I have much to be thankful for this year. Not only my friends and family but also the realization of my dream of becoming a published author. I hope you all have wonderful holidays this year and that you are safe and surrounded by your families!
As for Cinder and me today? Why turkey sandwiches of course!!!
15 thoughts on “Thanksgiving…Italian Style”
I need to make sure you have my phone number for next year!!! 😀
Absolutely. We were just saying last night that this needs to be a regular thing with more expat friends… and as you know, good cooks are always welcome!! 🙂
Looks like great fun! This is one feast I miss most about home.
What nostalgia your post brings me! I have never celebratedThanksgiving in Italy. My husband is Italian and it never seemed to make sense. So happy for your early celebration.
Next year, we definitely need to invite more people. We certainly prepared enough food to feed twice as many people as we had this year!
Happy Thanksgiving to you Jen! November is a wonderful month to remember all that we are thankful for from this past year. For me,thankful that Uncle Gary and Kelly’s health returned and my retirement. You have inspired me, I am going to cook a real pumpkin and make a pie from it. So glad you can have a touch of home in your new home.
Much love, Aunt Krissie
And I am grateful to have reconnected with you! It’s comforting to know that my family is with me even when I am far from home!! Good luck with the pumpkin and let me know how the pie comes out… Love Jen
Jennifer, loved reading this and loved reading your book. I live in Montisi most of the time (back in the States now for a month), and enjoyed descriptions of people I know (L’Avvocato!). I could relate to so many of the things you wrote about, and “at least you’re in Tuscany” is a refrain I hear often.. Right now I am almost finished with True Vines (Diana is a friend) and will write reviews of both soon. I hope we can meet someday! Gail
Thanks, Gail! I am glad you enjoyed the book! I hope to meet you too. I’d love to meet Diana also. We have been emailing, but haven’t met in person yet! Enjoy your time in the states… Have a margarita or some Thai food for me!! 🙂
Sounds good! Next time you need cranberries or sweet potatoes, come on down to Rome on a Saturday — my market at Tuscolana has a stand (among the myriad others, but only this one had it!) with wonderful things such as cranberries (she gave me a handful to eat, they were so good!!), sweet potatoes and pumpkins and horseradish (finally found!). This stand seemed to have more of the “lesser found” items.
I will remember your blog next Thansgiving while living in Tuscany. I hope my husband and me meet some expats to share a meal. We are moving to Florence Nov.30th. Any ideas of what we can do on Christmas?
Good luck with your move, Angie! I hope you meet some great people in Florence. Montepulciano doesn’t have a lot going at Christmas time, but I am sure Florence will have more to do around the holidays. Might be a good time for you and your hubby to start your own traditions in Italy!!! Enjoy!!!
You mentioned you are working at a winery….which one? My Italian partner and I buy wine from select local wineries for his restaurant… Our paths might have crossed!
Hello, in California we have the same greenish, squat, pumpkin called “Hubbard squash.” We also use it to make pumpkin pie, and it is also sold in halves or quarters by the farmers at our farmers market. We have several Italian-American farmers who sell familiar italian produce, the frilly-leaved cabbages, dandelion, and of course oregano, rosemary…
Hi Gail!! I work at Poliziano during the season. I have been there three years now and it is my favorite Vino Nobile!!
Susan, Glad to know that you are able to get some of the great Italian produce where you are… it is something special!!!